Having toured 52 Country's to date and almost entire India it always embarrassed me of missing out on Mahabaleshwar and Panchgani in my tour resume bucket list ! Mahabaleshwar is the most popular hill station of the State of Maharashtra in India .Even the poorest of young married couples can afford their "Honeymoon" in Mahabaleshwar through the numerous daily cheap affordable "2/3 days Package tours" organized by various tour companies in Mumbai and Pune. Decided to begin the new year month of January with a short "2/3 day tour" of this hill resort .Enquired with various tour companies for admission of a single tourist in a package tour and was surprised to know that all tour companies accepted only "COUPLES" or "TWO PEOPLE OF THE SAME SEX" but no "SINGLES" . A bachelor or a spinster had no place in any "Package tour group" to Mahabaleshwar ! Finally decided to backpack "Solo" and on Tuesday(5-1-2016) booked a ticket for Mahabaleshwar costing Rs 500 on "Krsna tour bus" at "Dadar Tourist Centre(Dadar East)".
A tourists guide map of Mahabaleshwar
Sunday(10-1-2016) DEPARTURE MUMBAI :- In my life its been bizarre that troubles have happened to me simultaneously akin to a natural calamity and 2016 began with nothing but personal disasters.Financially on the day of my departure i was at the lowest ebb of my normal jovial nature as i had suffered heavy dual losses in the "Stock Market" due to the World wide "China economic slump" as well as in my expensive addictive hobby of "Horse-racing" at the Mahalaxmi racecourse in Mumbai. My housekeeper Sabina Dias was also on the verge of leaving my employment for personal reasons which left me handicapped since my two cats would not have a "Pet -Sitter" at home during my frequent tours.Both my cats enjoy the luxury of my small house akin to human children and i could just not think of leaving them at any "Pet boarding house" during a tour.Worse, i couldn't just abandon and dump them for "Adoption(Read as Euthanasia)" as do some pet owners , a very common phenomenon in "First world Country's".This was a bigger shock than the "Economic crash of 2008" and the "China 2016 economic Collapse" as she was in my employment for 12 long years post my mother's demise in 2004.With great difficulty i convinced her to be a part of my small household of 2 cats as they are my non-human children in my loneliness as a bachelor.Living life as a travelling nomad on the speculative edge has made me always appreciate the fact that life is never a straight happy or sad graph and akin to a heart wave machine is a "Alternate Current graph" of happiness and pathos. If the graph is steady it means you are physically or emotionally a dead human!Sorted out my financial and personal household mess akin to a Industrialist sorting out personal Industrial labour and commercial problems and got ready for departure to Mahabaleshwar.
The luxury bus journey to Mahabaleshwar.
Mahabaleshwar is approximately 260 Kms by road from Mumbai and my bus boarding point was at "Plaza Cinema(Dadar West)".Left my home in Prabhadevi at 2030 hrs and was early at Plaza theatre , totally confused about the actual "Pick-Up Location".There were a few young couples with whom "Uncle Rudy" did make inquiries and was satisfied that i was at least at the right location.Thanks to the "Mobile revolution" that information is available at the click of a message pad or a phone call and hence got details of my bus agenda and number through the mobile phone.Bus "Chirag(MH-I-04-GP-1293)" arrived at 2230 hrs and my final journey to elusive Mahabaleshwar began from concrete jungle Mumbai.It was a brand new bus barely a month old and the latest historical fictionalized Maratha Hindi classic "Bajirao Mastani" was playing on the bus's giant video screen.The excellent chill bus air conditioning alleviated my cough-cold allergy and hence a sleepless night journey.
View of Rampants of "PRATAPGAD FORT" from its Peak.
Monday(11-1-2016) ARRIVAL MAHABALESHWAR :- At approximately 0430 hrs we reached Wai town where the bus stopped and i happened to step outside the controlled A/C temp of the bus into the biting cold morning of Wai town .Mumbai was cool and pleasant while Wai was uncomfortably chilling cold which further aggravated my allergic cold.From Wai it was a short drive to Panchgani where our brand new bus had a spectacular mechanical failure. Two passengers wanted to alight at Panchgani but the pneumatic operated bus door just failed to open.The bus cleaner and driver spent at least 45 minutes unfastening the nuts/bolts from the pneumatic lever while i recollected my own emergency repairs on ships at mid-sea during the "Merchant Navy Employment Years".
Palatial "Double bed room" stay at "Koyna Lodge".
While the bus staff was engrossed in repairing the bus door i strolled across the road and had a talk with the care-taker of "Pan Hill Hotel" .It was a cold dark morning ans i was in a total strange land of self discovery.He explained me briefly the topography of Panchgani and Mahabaleshwar and i was floored to realize that the small town of Panchgani was a "EDUCATION INDUSTRIAL TOWN" having approximately 46 schools akin to Jamshedpur being a Steel city of India ! Panchgani's weather in January was typical European Mediterranean type, cool but not biting cold akin to Wai town.After the bus door repairs it was a short 18 Kms drive in the dark morning towards Mahabaleshwar.On arrival at Mahabaleshwar municipal boundary all tourists had to purchase a "Mahableshwar Hill station passenger tax" ticket costing Rs 20 which was valid for 7 days.
GUIDED S.T TOUR BUS for "PRATAPGAD FORT".
Finally arrived at my elusive destination Mahabaleshwar Bazaar at 0630 hrs and on alighting was pestered by numerous taxi drivers and hotel agents ,a typical scene in any tourist resort.Finally struck a bargain with one of the hotel/lodge agents at Rs600/night and was guided a short walking distance to "Koyna Lodge".Lodge Manager Mr Tukaram.Danawade took me to my room on the first floor of this small 2 storey building which housed a "U.B.I " office and A.T..M on one wing of its ground floor, a landmark of this lodge.I was impressed by the cleanliness of this twin sharing lodge room which worked out to Rs 300/person and realized the reasons for Mahabaleshwar being a "Honeymoon" paradise for Maharashtrians of all economic strata of society as even lower economic income groups could enjoy a decent stay at this hill resort along with billionaires.
"Shivkalin Khedagaon" model house.
On tour budgets my least expenditure is on lodging and hence i always chose the cheapest accommodation in any city or country.After a brief wash and change of clothing decided to begin my solo exploration Lodge manager Tukaram gave me directions to the main "S.T bus depot" and the fact that guided tours were conducted by these buses.From "Koyna Lodge" it was a short uphill walk to the main market bazaar road which was deserted at 0830 hrs barring a few fruit sellers.Mahabaleshwar is always identified with strawberries and on sighting my first Mahabaleshwar strawberries was instantly enamoured by the sight of the freshness and colour of this fruit as well as the carrots, lettuces and raspberries sold alongside with the strawberries.
At the "Shivkalin Khedagaon" model village.
Was i in England along the Serpentine lake at Hyde park in London ? No, this was Mahabaleshwar in India and i was and definitely not day-dreaming.Walked into "President Restaurant" situated on the narrow main bazaar road and had a delicious breakfast of "Idli chutney/tea (Rs 85)".The restaurants were just beginning to open and entire narrow bazaar street upto the S.T bus depot was lined with shops and restaurants.I was at Mahabaleshwar in a total off-season tourist week as no sane person would venture to a hill-station in winter barring honeymoon couples and a few young trekking adventurers. It was the blooming season for strawberries and a blessing in disguise for me to undertake lone isolated jungle tour walks totally devoid off tourist traffic.
Entrance to "Shivkalin Khedagaon" .
The only tourists i spotted were young couples, a few families and school children."Uncle Rudy" was a freak sight in young Mahabaleshwar , the "Solo Honeymooner" ! On arrival at the S.T bus stand inquired about the guided tours and thanks to the tourist off-season managed to get a ticket costing Rs 155 for the 0930 guided tour to Pratapgad Fort called "Pratapgad Darshan"..The normal procedure adopted by a majority of tourists is to hire taxi's for fixed guided tours of Mahabaleshwar,Pratapgad and Panchgani.This is very economic and convenient for big tour groups or a minimum of 4 tourists but definitely a luxury for a single tourist.Another disadvantage of guided taxi tours was that akin to packaged tours they had a fixed timing for every tourist spot unlike the luxury of a solo tour where time was at your own personal beck and call.The bus was almost full to capacity with young couples and a few families with myself being the odd loner.At approximately 0945 hrs we departed for our road journey to Pratapgad fort which was 18 Kms from the S.T bus stand in Mahabaleshwar bazaar road.
Entrance to Pratapgad Fort.
Our bus conductor was our tour guide and the medium of instruction was Marathi and Hindi language.The highway road was narrow and driving in Mahabaleshwar definitely required utmost skill.It was a long straight drive towards "Mumbai point" and then a diversification at "Lodwick point" which was a total downhill drive through hair-pin bends.Finally at approximately 1015 hrs reached the "Shivkalin Khedagaon" situated at the base of Pratapgad hill Fort which was a traditional statue museum of life during the era of Chhatrapati Shivaji.A entrance ticket of Rs 30 allows visitors to enter the model village that has life-size statues of a typical village and village activities during the era of Chhatrapati Shivaji.Having visited "Madame Tussaud's" in London i was amazed at the excellent craftsmanship and reality of the human and animal models in this small artificial village.Took some photographs along the life-size models as also one on horse back impersonating a Maratha warrior and another impersonating a Maratha foot soldier.Only difference was that i was wearing a 21st century "Harley Davidson" T-shirt in a era where horsemanship exists mostly as a sport with the horse long been replaced by mechanized vehicles in human warfare.
Bronze equestrian statue of Shivaji.
Finally at 1045 we drove from the "Shivakheda model village" towards Pratapgad Fort, a total uphill drive.Pratapgad fort is situated at a altitude of 1,080 meters(3050 ft)At approximately 1100 hrs reached the parking lot of Pratapgad Fort.Our bus tour conductor gave us a one hour time frame to trek to the pinnacle of the fort and back to the bus for departure to Mahabaleshwar.The "S.T Bus guided tour" was identical to any private or taxi tours with the only difference being that it was cheaper and beneficial for lonely , miserly or economically weaker sections of tourists.There was a large crowd at Pratapgad fort and i quickly made my way towards the summit which was up a flight of stone stairs.I could never ever completely retire from "Fort Treks".There are numerous eatery and souvenir shops inside the ruins of the fort complex and barring the rampants boundary walls the fort resembles a hill picnic spot.Guides are available for tourists with the language being either in Marathi or Hindi.I had studied Pratapgad as a history text and was sad at seeing such a majestic and historic fort in utter ruins and badly maintained.
Mausoleum of Afzal.Khan
This fort is privately owned by Uday.Raje.Bhosle , heir to the former princely State of Satara and a direct descendant of Chhatrapati Shivaji.Bhosale .Chattrapati Shivaji's most important battle was at Pratapgad where a numerical inferior Maratha army defeated the Bijapur army led by Afzal.Khan.The assassination of Afzal.Khan is a part of Maratha folklore and his grave lies at the foot of the fort in the nearby vicinity.The battle of Pratapgad resulted in the beginnings of the creation of the "Maratha Empire" founded by Chhatrapati Shivaji.On reaching the summit the most prominent monument is a 17 foot high bronze equestrian statue of Chhatrapati Shivaji inaugurated by then Indian Prime Minister Pandit Jawaharlal.Nehru on 30th November 1957.Raigad Fort can be seen at a distance from the summit as also a panoramic view of the Konkan valley of Raigad district.
Pratapgad Fort as viewed from Car Park.
Besides this giant statue there is no other literature on important sites within this historic fort.Inquired about the "Punishment Point" and was guided towards a curved rampant where prisoners were thrown off the wall into the valley below, a common method of execution of the Maratha Empire.After a brief rest at the summit and photography made my way back to the car parking lot.A tourist passenger was missing and hence the bus departure was delayed finally leaving Pratapgad Fort at 1245 hrs with a missing tourist.Hope the tourist didn't fall off "Punishment point" and did make his way back to Mahabaleshwar ! Tourist delays are a major setback in any guided tours and sometimes the entire group has to waste time or miss a important tour site due to lack of time for the selfishness and stupidity of a single or a few tourists.On our way the guide showed us Afzal.Khan's tomb from a distance situated at one end of the hill a short distance from the car parking lot.We finally reached Mahabaleshwar at approximately 1330 hrs.On arriving at the "St Bus stand" immediately booked my package tour for the 1430 hrs "Mahabaleshwar Darshan" costing Rs 150.Also inquired about the next days "S.T Bus Mahabaleshwar Darshan" and was told that it would be a same repeat itinerary as was today. There were no separate tour darshan buses for Panchgani and hence the next two days of mine would be a tour itinerary planned to my convenience and leisure time.Lunch was at "Rahi Shivsagar restaurant" on bazaar street and consisted of delicious "Paav Bhaji(Rs 145)".After lunch went back to the "S.T.Bus stand" for "Mahabaleshwar Darshan Tour" that was scheduled for 1430 hrs.The bus was late and we finally boarded the bus at approximately 1450 hrs,the majority tourists being young couples with me being the odd solo traveller.
"Mahabaleshwar Darshan bus tour".
It was a long 7 Kms drive through a narrow highway to "KATE'S POINT" situated at a elevation of 1,290 meters along Duchess road.Our bus stopped at the parking lot and we were allotted approximately one hour to visit "KATE'S POINT", "ECHO POINT",NEEDLE'S HOLE" and "ELEPHANT'S HEAD" point situated within walking distance of each other.There were camel and horse rides for tourists within the large parking lot.The horses of Mahabaleshwar seemed to be well maintained although the camels were definitely out of place in this town which receives the second highest rainfall in the World.I wonder what was the fate of these tourist riding camels during the peak monsoon season from June to August. I first walked to "NEEDLES HOLE POINT" which was a long walk from the car park.From "Needle's Hole point" the view of the valley below was amazing as are all valleys when seen from a height..The best view of "Elephant's head point" is from "Needle's Hole Point". During the Monsoon season there is a water spring flowing from this point and it is called "Vulture's water". During my visit the spring was totally dry as Mahabaleshwar as also entire State of Maharashtra had one of its lowest rainfall years in over a decade.At "ECHO POINT" tested the valley for a echo and on saying "HELLO" did get a answer back from the deep valley. Beautiful and mystical.
View of "ELEPHANT'S HEAD" from "NEEDLE"S VIEW POINT".
Next is a view of VULTURE'S Water Spring" that is dry.
"VULTURE'S WATER SPRING"
"ELEPHANT'S HEAD POINT" :- Kate's Point" is on top of the head.
View of "KRISHNA VALLEY and "DHOOM DAM" from "KATE'S POINT".
"Strawberry Cultivation" in boxes on farm
"KATE'S POINT" got its name from Sir James.Malcolm's daughter Kate who loved visiting this point. We finally got together in the bus and began our onward journey towards a strawberry farm cum hotel. At approximately 1545 hrs we reached the farm and were given a lecture on the cultivation of "STRAWBERRY" .Strawberry is a seasonal fruit in Mahabaleshwar growing between the months of December to June and although off-season for tourists it was a season in Mahabaleshwar for Strawberry Gourmets.After the lecture tasted the farms delicious fresh "Strawberry Cream(Rs 50)" and thus began my saga of strawberry snacks and milkshakes in Mahabaleshwar.At 1600 hrs after satiasting our craving for strawberry milkshakes and creams we finally got into out "S.T Tour Bus" and began our road journey to "Panchganga Temple" which is constructed at the confluence of five rivers with longest being the Krishna river.At approx 1620 hrs we reached the parking lot of the temple complex .We were allotted a short time frame for visiting the temple and all communities are allowed to visit the "Panchganga Temple".
Entrance to "PANCHGANGA TEMPLE" in Mahabaleshwar. :- Source of the Krishna River.
The 5 riversKrishna,Veena,Savitri,Koyna and Gayatri have their source from this small temple constructed in the 13th century by Raja Singha Deo , the ruler of the Yadav Dynasty of Davagiri.The temple was improved during the 16th century by Raja Chanda Rao More of Jaoli and in the 17th Century by Chhatrapati Shivaji.I quickly made my way up a short flight of stairs to the entrance of the temple and after removing my footwear entered the sacred enclave. Photography is prohibited and it is a small simple temple. Two Gaumukhi's (Sculpted Cow head feeding its young) are erected inside the temple and from one of the Gaumukhi was a steady flow of water akin to a hose which is the source of the 5 rivers.Unbelievable to see that the mighty Krishna river beginning as a gush of water from the mouth of the Gaumukhi(cow).During Monsoon water gushes from both the Gaumukhi's.Wiped my face and drank water from the Gaumukhi and its not everyday that a person gets to visit and drink water from the source of river.
At "ARTHUR'S SEAT" view point. Named after Sir George.Arthur(Governor of Bombay Presidency ( 1841-1846) A strange phenomenon at this point is the floating of light objects when thrown from this point due to the high air pressure.From "ARTHUR'S SEAT" the hill forts of Raigad( 1317M) and Torna( 1535M) are visible.
Our next destination was "ARTHUR'S SEAT POINT", considered the best and most popular point in Mahabaleshwar.Its approximately 13 Kms from Mahabaleshwar market which explains the reasons for even hard core trekkers opting for private taxi's and tour buses to visit the various points around Mahabaleshwar. None of the viewpoints in Mahabaleshwar are less than 2 Kms from the main market place
"Wild Gaur" sighting at "Arthurs Seat point"
At approximately 1700 hrs we arrived at "Arthur's seat Point" which has 6 points in its vicinity requiring a long walk from point to point in a 1 Km radius..I began a quick tour of the "point's" which was crowded with tourists on a off-season day proving its popularity.Macaque monkeys were all over the place and absolutely bold.Visited "Echo Point" but unlike the "Echo Point" at "Kate's Point" this particular point did not produce a echo.Next visited "Tiger Spring point" which was devoid off spring water but was once a place where tigers and other animals quenched their thirst and is supposed to have miraculous powers.."Window Point" had a window shaped mountain facing it and hence the name."Hunter's Point" was once a favourite hunting spot for hunters and hence the name.
Panoramic view from "Arthur's Seat"
.The view from Arthur's seat point of the Konkan plains on one side and the Deccan Plateau on the other side is mesmerizing.The stratification of the rock formation on the Southern side resembles the Grand Canyon of Colorado.Spotted a Serpentine eagle soaring high above the sky at Arthur's Point.A few meters away from "Arthurs Seat" is "Malet Point" named after Sir Arthur Malet who tragically lost his wife and daughter in a ferry accident on the Savitri river while crossing over to Mahabaleshwar.He would sit at this spot and observe the Savitri river and valley situated 800 meters below. Bizarrely near "Arthur's Seat Point" came across 3 wild Gaur grazing peacefully in the forest just a few meters from the main tourist pathway.I have visited numerous wild-life sanctuaries in India and have never ever spotted Wild Gaur in such close proximity to humans in a shallow forest cover unlike cheetal deer which are common near human habitation.I could imagine the wild-life in this vicinity at the turn of the 19th century and hence the name "Hunter's point"."Malcolms Point" gets its name from Sir John.Malcolm who was the first Governor of Mahabaleshwar and established the town as a recreational getaway hill station in 1829.It was a hazy morning and hence the visibility hazy On a clear day a tourist can get a binocular glimpse of Tornagad,Pratapgad and Savitri valley from "Malcolm Point".
At "Elphinstone Pt"
Observed a hilarious sight of a Macaque monkey licking a ice -gola (Iced ice-cream)akin to a human and seems Charles.Darwin has not unwittingly raised a debate about the origin of us humans from apes and not as a creation by God.Finally at approximately 1745 hrs we began the journey to our last viewpoint which was "Elphinstone Point" to observe the sunset of Monday 2016.The most popular sunset point is actually "Mumbai Point(Bombay Point" but out tour bus chose the alternative as the road to "Mumbai View point" was under repairs.At 1800 hrs we arrived at "Elphinstone Point" .This point was discovered by Dr James.Murray in 1830 and is one of the highest points in Mahabaleshwar.Its named after Mountstuart.Elphinstone who was the then Governor of the Bombay Presidency.From the parking lot it was a long walk to the point and on reaching it the view was stupendous in the setting sun.On standing in the railed enclosure you have Pratapgad Fort facing you in the distance and the Koyna Valley on your left side while the Savitri Valley is on your right side.After watching the Sun dip over Pratapgad made our way to the bus.
"SUNSET" as observed from Elphinstone Point on a hazy Monday winter.
The drive back to Mahabaleshwar town was a driver's nightmare with traffic jams as its difficult for two buses to pass each other in opposite directions on any road in this hill-station.
Mahabaleshwar main market street.
Wonder the condition during peak vehicular traffic during peak tourist season.Only hope the roads are not broadened as is normally done in City's thus destroying precious trees and wild-life habitat.Finally reached Mahabaleshwar bus depot at 1905 hrs, an end to a hectic day of bus tours.Walked down the bustling narrow market street brightly lit up by the hotels and restaurants. Observed a few Slot machine gambling parlours in the market centre and seems gambling is a universal favourite pass-time en any part of the World and least of all in a popular hill station called Mahabaleshwar. Strolled along the one way,one-horse town pedestrian market street and came across the horse joy ride owners returning back to town with their horses.
Horses on Mahabaleshwar Market road.Wild-West.
Straight out of the "Wild-West Cinema" or classic Hindi film "Sholay" ! Booked my return bus ticket to Mumbai with "Adhiraj Travels" situated on the main Bazaar road that has numerous travel agents with the most prominent being "Nita Travel agency". Booked a ticket for Wednesday(13-1-2016) on a sleeper bus "Swami Travels" departing from Mahabaleshwar at 2100 hrs with the ticket costing Rs 500.This was a "Off-Season bus ticket rate" and the same could be double the price in peak tourist season.Dinner was fried chicken rice costing a miserly Rs 50 at the popular road side mobile stall.My Cough/cold had aggravated to its maximum and my gambling instinct told me that this was just a allergy phenomenon and not holiday threatening.Went back to my lodge and manager Tukaram prepared a hot bucket of water for my refreshing bathe.My room had no telivision and it was a sleepless night of coughing and trying to sleep.Life of a nomad is not easy !
ROAD ROUTE MAP AND TOURIST POINTS OF MAHABALESHWAR & PANCHGANI
Exploring Panchgani :- The view from "TABLELAND", second highest plateau in Asia after the Tibetan Plateau.
Tuesday(12-1-2016) MARATHON TREKKING EXPLORATION OF PANCHGANI AND MAHABALESHWAR :- A sleepless night finally came to a end with the "Muezzin's" wake-up call for prayers at 0600 hrs from the mosque's loudspeakers.Mahabaleshwar has a large Muslim population with the towns Mosque situated on Market road, a short walking distance from "Koyna Lodge".
"Panchgani Guide map".
.After my normal toilet routines and grooming at approximately 0715 hrs made my way out of the lodge into the cold Mahabalshwar morning.As usual it was the lone Strawberry seller that was the only business open on main market street besides the odd "Chai/Vada Paavstall".Had a cup of tea(Rs 10) at a street-side stall and made my way to the now familiar "Mahabaleshwar S.T Bus terminus".Glanced at the newspaper at the bus stand and a small obituary caption immediately caught my attention. One of my favourite singers David.Bowie had succumbed to cancer on Sunday(10-1-2016).Purchased the "T.O.I" newspaper and headed into the bus terminus surprised at the unexpected demise of a ageless rock icon of English music. I was also on a investigative tour on the roots of Indian origin British rock star late Freddie Mercury of the group "Queen" and hence David.Bowie's death news on the same day was a bizarre co-incidence.The two of them had also sung a duet together titled "UNDER PRESSURE" which was a anthem for my marathon trekking tour of Pratapgad,Mahabaleshwar and Pratapgad.Boarded the Panchgani bound S.T bus packed with school children and it transformed me into a different World of innocence and nostalgia of my own school years in Mumbai.At approximately 0750 hrs the crowded bus consisting almost entirely of school children began its 23 Kms journey from Mahabaleshwar to Panchgani with the ticket priced at Rs 20.A very scenic bus ride through forests and one of my prime destinations was to visit "St Peters School", the alma mater of English music rock legend Freddie.Mercury(Farrokh.Bulsara) between 1953-1958 before his migration to England and rock history..At approximately 0830 hrs we arrived into Panchgani Municipal limits and i asked the young 7th standard boy seated next to me for directions to "St Peters School".Panchgani has approximately 48 schools with the town being a "Education Industry".
St Joseph's Church(Est 1878)
He told me that our bus had just passed the location and advised me to alight at the main bus terminus in Panchgani and do a taxi sightseeing of the town.A smart kid for his age.Wasn't i smart at his age in 1972 ? Every generation thinks that they are smarter than the previous or led a better standard of life in a different era.Its all a question of changes in life being permanent for us humans with only memories, photographs and history being relevant as generations die out over decades. On reaching Panchgani S.T terminus was surprised to see "Pan Hill hotel" where our bus had a breakdown last night situated on the main road just opposite the "S.T. Terminus and realized that we humans live in a small World.It was early morning and all shops in Panchgani were closed barring a few tea stalls.Made my way to a small Dhabba near the main street and inquired for directions to "Table land".
"Rock-side" :-Palatial Parsi Bungalows of Panchgani.
To my astonishment the stall owner told me that it was walkable distance and after a "Puri/Bhaji" breakfast at his stall began my day's marathon discovery trek of Panchgani.From the main road it was a short uphill walk to the main hill road that led to tableland.Not confusing but just a steep approximately 1 Km uphill walk. A beautiful walk early in the morning and came across St Joseph's Church established in 1878 and definitely a pioneer in the modern development of Panchgani as a educational Institution as are all Christian Institutions in most parts of India..The weather was identical to British weather in Summer and better since there was Sunshine unlike Britain which normally has clouds on warm days.A Britisher named John.Chesson was made in charge of developing a hill station and he established Panchgani as a sanatorium town in 1854.Mr John.Chesson along with a Parsi Mr Rustomji.Dubash surveyed the hills and zeroed on a plateau that was surrounded by 5 villages and decided to develop this area into a hill resort and hence Panchgani was born and established.Mr John.Chesson also planted different exotic imported trees that today flourish in Panchgani.On his death Mr John.Chesson was buried in "St Peters Cemetery" and he is credited as the founder of Panchgani.
A gang of monkeys, the only tourists on "TABLELAND"!
The Parsi community literally owns Panchgani stock and barrel as they were the first industrialists and entrepreneurs to colonize Panchgani once the Britishers established their presence through Christianity and the setting up of schools..Came across some beautiful Parsi owned Bungalows which reminded me of England and Europe. Inquired about the rental of the palatial "Rock-Side" bungalow and was told by its care-taker that it was leased on rentals by its owners at Rs 12,000/day for a maximum of 6 people.Definitely cheap and worth the money if touring Panchgani in a group or a reclusive billionaire in need of business or personal solitude.Thanks to the cold British type weather that walking fatigue was a distant scare although i was suffering from severe cough/cold, a annual weather change allergy.Finally after walking uphill and then a flight of stone stairs reached the main road leading to "TABLE LAND".
Lush greenery in the valley below "TABLELAND".
At approximately 0900 hrs set step on tableland and was baffled by the sight of a huge barren land resembling a playing field with a steep drop into the valley below. Tableland is 4550 feet above sea level and the highest point in Panchgani as also the second highest plateau in Asia after the Tibetan plateau..The plateau has a area of 6.5 Kms and i seemed to be the first Mumbai tourist trekker to have set foot on Tableland on Tuesday(12-1-2016).It was totally deserted except for a gang of Macaque monkeys near the edge of the plateau and lone man sitting in the distance near a railing with a telescope at his side.This is the advantage of visiting crowded tourist sites on non-tourist days. You literally feel you own the place or is receiving treatment as a "V.I.P" tourist !
In "TIGER CAVE" on the rock face of Tableland.
Approached the lone man Mr Vinayak.Janku, a retired man from Pune who earned some retirement income as well as kept himself busy by showing tourists the sights of the valley through his telescope. Since i had binoculars he explained me a few of the sights of the Krishna river that flowed in the valley below through Panchgani.Later a few more tourists populated the isolated Tableland while i strolled around this vast barren land.Every school student would immediately understand the definition of "Plateau" if physically shown the Tableland.Thats the advantage of "TRAVEL".
"SELFIE" in "TIGER LAIR" inside "TIGER CAVE".
Science has proved that children who travel from a young age with their parents or schools are much more well groomed intellectually and culturally compared to their non- travelling peers.Strolled around the plateau and realized that schools were also established on the Tableland.The "Vidya Niketan High School" had a large ground and campus at one corner of the Tableland.The tourist crowd was gradually beginning to arrive at the car parking area as also the horses along with their handlers.Near the edge of the Tableland facing the Krishna Valley spotted a signpost stating "Tiger Cave".As a lone tourist on a isolated Tableland was at first hesitant to walk down the stone steps at the edge of the plateau but finally mustered courage and walked down the steep steps.
Scene from the "Wild West" ? Tableland horse rides.
What if someone pushed me over the edge of the Table ? Just a few meters below the Tableland face was the entrance to a enormous natural cave called "Tiger Cave" which was also a restaurant for tourists.I was the first tourist of the day and on payment of Rs 10 entrance fee was directed by the lone employee towards a dark hole inside the cave which was once a tiger lair, It was pitch dark in the small cave where a lifelike dummy tiger family was placed on a ledge in the small cave.After sighting the artificial tigers in their lair came out of the small dark cave into the main large cave that offered a breathtaking view of the Krishna valley.Relaxed at "Tiger Cave" just fascinated by the sheer view from this Natural cave now converted into a restaurant.From "Tiger Cave" made my way back up the stairs onto Tableland.
View of "School Playground Campus" on Table land.
The barren Tableland now had a few tourists as well as a couple on a pony ride.Came across a horse handler washing his Kathiawar breed horse at a small pond on the Tableland, a scene akin to a Wild West film or the classic Hindi film "Sholay"..He explained me the cost of the horse rides on Tableland with Rs 640 being a guided horse ride to 4 different points while for Rs 1280 it would be a to 9 different points on Tableland.If a tourist intending to sightseeing the 6.5 Sq Km Tableland then a luxurious guided horse tour is advisable.Caution should be exerted while on solo horse rides on tableland as a slight miscalculation or loss of control of the horse could mean a deep plunge into the valley from the face of the Table.
"Table Mountain" as seen from "Parsi Point".
Numerous Hindi films have been filmed on Tableland with the most recent being the 2016 Filmfare award winning Maratha semi-fictional historical film "Bajirao Mastani". I have visited 52 Country's and almost entire India and should say that Tableland was unique for its dangerous simplicity in locale and adventure.You could easily fall off the Table into a Abyss !Walked out of Tableland onto the downhill road.The entrance road into Tableland was packed with more horses and handlers than tourists. All the horses were "Kathiwar breed" and seemed well cared and healthy externally.All ther horses had their individual names on their sides and not numbers akin to personal pets.
Dhom Dam and Krishna valley from "Parsi Point".
It was a pleasant downhill walk from Tableland with my next destination being "Parsi Point".En-route visited St Joseph's Church and was the lone visitor inside this beautiful Church. The Christmas decorations were being removed by the Church care-taker and strangely the Christian population of the twin towns of Mahabaleshwar and Panchgani was minuscule although the Britishers themselves were mostly Anglican Christians.Unlike the Portuguese Catholic Colonizers the Britishers didn't believe in conversions for consolidating their rule but in conquering land and rulers for expanding their Empire.
" BABY POINT":- St Peter's School campus.
From the Church walked downhill and later onto the main Panchgani road leading to the Panchgani bus terminus."Parsi Point" is on the road route to Mahabaleshwar and a long walk from Panchgani bus station.Every passerby on the road told me that it was just a short Km away which kept me walking endlessly on the straight road to Mahabaleshwar. I was only hoping that i would finally not walk halfway to Mahabaleshwar! Was almost on the verge of giving up when i reached the outer boundary limits of Panchgani Municipality with no sight of the elusive "Parsi Point".A passerby told me that it was just a few meters away on the bend of the highway and finally at 1130 hrs with my tiring breath and cough/cold allergy stumbled into "Parsi Point".A beautiful small garden existed at Parsi point which did have a crowd of tourist.
"Lawrence Villa":- St Peter's School Principal residence.
The view of the Dhom Dam and Krishna valley below as well as Tableland above was beautiful in the hazy morning sky.A guide was explaining to tourists the various viewpoints through his telescope aqnd he did explain me my questions through my binoculars.He showed me "Sydney Point" and "One Tree Point" situated on the distant Tableland.As usual strawberries and other fruits were on sale and had a snack consisting of guava's.After a brief rest at "Parsi Point" made my way back towards Panchgani and a Km away came across a uphill road with the sign indicating "St Peters School".Made inquiries and walked uphill absolutely surprised to see the entire small hill called "Baby Point" owned by "St Peter's School"!
Historic St Peter's Church.
Both sides of the "Baby Point" had various buildings belonging to "St Peter's School ".St Peters School followed the "I.C.S.,E" education system which was the same as my Alma mater "Christ Church School" in Mumbai."Lawrence Villa" which housed the Principal's residence and also the boarding section for the seniour boys of St Peter's school had a campus that most plush private schools in Mumbai could just dream about which indicates the massive property owned by the school.Bizarrely there were also a few court hoardings planted on some vacant land on "Baby Point" stating that the plot of land was owned by "The Bombay Diocesan Trust Assy(Pvt) Ltd" in Mumbai.
Grave of John,Chesson in St Peters Church.
The only authorized developer of these vacant plots was a Mr Satish.N.Mody of Pune. Church property land grab has created a great controversy in Mumbai and seems the same could be the case in Panchgani which has major Church and Institutional land in private church run trusts.Spotted the St Peter's school hospital and entered its premises. A young lady was in the hospital dispensary whom i mistook to be a doctor but was the hospital nurse in-charge.Inquired with Rebecca.Ellison about Freddie.Mercury and she told me that he was from the same school and that they also made a few school documentaries on him.Bizarrely Farrokh.Balsara and myself had identical initial growing up years and education . I was born in Mombasa while Farrokh was born in Zanzibar. Farrokh migrated to Mumbai in 1953 while I migrated to Mumbai in 1968 . The similarity ends there as i remained in Mumbai qualifying as a "Marine Engineer" and now touring Country's and India as a nomad called "Uncle Rudy" while Farrokh permanently migrated to England from Mumbai and became the household name "Freddie Mercury" .
"The Panchgani Club(Est 1883)"
Another difference is that i am not "Gay" although a confirmed bachelor and under eternal suspicion about my sexuality by both males and females of the human species. Ha Ha Ha Hee Hee Hee !Yes he did have a privileged upbringing as do majority of the Parsi community which is the wealthiest community in India.Thanking her i made my exit from the small school hospital satisfied of my own investigative tour of Farrokh.Bulsara alias Freddie.Mercury.At the peak of his career Freddie.Mercury in interviews always considered himself of "Persian" descent hiding his 100% Indian heritage.Reasons are open to debate but having stayed in England for approximately 6 months in the 1980's i could understand his reasons for disguising his Indian origins in the 1970's.How could a man of Indian origin speak English so fluently and be a lead singer of a English Rock group of International acclaim ? It was the era of apartheid in South Africa and "Paki Bashing" fad in England where any Asian irrespective of Indian or Pakistani origin was considered a "Outsider" in main stream British society. Further downhill along "Baby Point" came across "St Peter's Church".The entire road was deserted and as i opened the Church gate and entered the ground premises felt akin to being in a historic abandoned estate seen in normal English films and not uncommon in Europe.
"Fish Section" in Panchgani Market.
The small church was closed and there was a notice board with a pamphlet stating the expenses of the Christmas celebrations by the church parishioners.Walked past the deserted Church complex and came across a small shack that i presumed to be the resident care-takers residence .Inquired about the Church and the graveyard of the founder of Panchgani James.Cheeson.Was directed to the backyard of the desolate Church complex and came across a few 19th century graves of which one had a tombstone with the name "John.Cheeson".The entire graveyard complex seemed unattended although not encroached upon as is the case of most desolate property in a era where land prices are soaring by leaps and bounds.
Plush "MAPRO GARDEN" restaurant.
From the graveyard walked past the main entrance gate of St Peters Church and onto the main highway road towards Panchgani S.T bus stand.It was a long walk and en-route came across the "Panchgani Club" situated on the main highway road. Entered the club premises and came across a few young men playing billiards.This club was established in 1883 by a few Parsi gentlemen and houses a library and a few indoor games.This club is also the meeting place of the local Rotary club of Panchgani.In the era of "Internet" libraries are gradually becoming book museums as also in my residence in Mumbai which has a large collection of magazines and books.Today i myself rarely visit a library with the internet being my source of research as well as blogging(writing) as a author.
"STRAWBERRY CREAM:"
From the club house walked straight along the main road and came across the "Kimmins Girls High School(Est 1902)", one of the oldest educational institutions in Panchgani.Finally on arriving at the main town decided to visit the local market situated next to the main road. A very clean meat,fish and vegetable market in comparison to Mumbai's markets.As usual visited the fish section and came across a huge catch of eels and other fish products with the entire fish produce of Panchgani being supplied from the Konkan coast.From the market walked back to the S.T bus stand and boarded the bus to Mahabaleshwar.Panchgani and Mahabaleshwar are famous for their Strawberry gardens and the "MAPRO" company has its advertisement footprint over entire Mahabaleshwar and Panchgani , a household name in these twin towns.The "MAPRO GARDEN" which is a manufacturing hub as well as a strawberry garden cum restaurants for tourists is located 8 Kms from Panchgani S.T bus stand.Requested the bus conductor to inform me on arrival at "Mapro garden" which was a long drive from the bus stand.
"KOYNA LODGE" my residence in Mahabaleshwar.
At approximately 1330 hrs reached "MAPRO GARDEN" and was in a different World of a total plush tourist factory cum resort. MAPRO products were for sale as also a viewing gallery for observing the manufacture of "Mapro Chocolates".It was a huge garden with the view point being the "Mapro Strawberry Farm" and the Krishna valley below.Entered the plush "Mapro garden restaurant" and ordered their signature dessert "Strawberry with cream(Rs 169)" which was expensive and something different.Finally at 1345 hrs boarded a local "Jeep Taxi" to Mahabaleshwar packed with local commuters and the uncomfortable ride priced at Rs 15.It was road travel of a different kind with the jeep packed to capacity and lucky that it was not a very long drive from "Mapro Garden" to Mahabaleshwar market.
"POLO GROUND" of Mahabaleshwar.
At approximately 1430 hrs reached Mahabaleshwar and headed straight to my hostel.After a brief rest in the hostel again headed back into the main town.Took a different route to the nearby S.T Bus stand and came across the beautiful and only Catholic Church in Mahabaleshwar called the "Holy Cross Church". The Churchwas situated in the Main bazaar street locality on a small parallel road leading to the S.T.Bus stand.The Church was closed and hence couldn't visit it and just walked over to the Bus stand.My legs were feeling the strain of the morning tour of Mahabaleshwar and risked mt physical fitness by deciding to trek to "Bombay point(Mumbai Point)" which was only approximately 3 Kms from the S.T bus stand.
"FOREST TREKS" through a canopy of tree's.
This point is one of the oldest points in Mahabaleshwar and named "Bombay(Mumbai) Point" as it is located on the old highway route to Bombay.The weather was bright and cool, excellent for long walks , cycling or jogging.Trekking to the various points in Mahabaleshwar is easy at there are onle a few main highway roads and all of them have direction indicators to the nearest point in the vicinity. The twin hill-stations of Panchgani and Mahabaleshwar is a vast plateau approximately 150 Sq Km in size and hence no "POINT" is less the 2 Kms from main Mahabaleshwar town centre which is the "S.T.Bus Stand". It was a long walk along the Pratapgad highway with beautiful palatial cottages and hotels lining the boundary of the road with dense evergreen forest in the interior. "Bombay(Mumbai) Point".After almost 2 Kms of walking came across a road diversification with one road leading to the Polo ground and the other to "Bombay Point".Decided to explore the Polo ground as horse-racing and the Mahalaxmi racecourse in Mumbai was my second home.
At " Bombay(Mumbai) Point"
A horse rider was going in the direction of Polo ground and i accompanied him absolutely surprised at the lack of humans in this normally densely populated hill station trail.We both walked towards the Polo ground which was through a narrow road passage with dense evergreen forest on both sides.Tourist business is definitely negligible during the non-tourist week-days or off-season's as in the monsoons and these petty self-employed horse owners and vendors definitely didn't have access to easy tourist revenue.Suddenly the dense forest opened into a huge vast ground reminding me of the Mahalaxmi racecourse in Mumbai.
"WHATS APP" at "Bombay(Mumbai) Point".
A huge playing field that was formerly a Polo ground during the British era but since then utilized as a horse leisure riding ground.There was no tourist in sight and thankfully the horse handler showed me a short-cut to "Bombay Point" which was through a "Horse trail" path in the dense jungle. Thanked him and made my lonely walk through the narrow forest track with no human in sight.After decades i experienced a lonely solo walk through a genuine jungle path and memories of my childhood hero and man-eating tiger/leopard hunter Jim.Corbett came to mind.What if i came face to face with a leopard or a wild Gaur ? Tigers were definitely non-existant in the Mahabaleshwar forest although the sighting of Wild Gaur at "Arthurs Seat" made me realize that "Big game" did genuinely exist in this pristine well preserved forests.Made the journey safely to the main road leading to "Bombay Point" and had to walk another one Km to finally reach this point.
Mahabaleshwar Raj Bhavan
On the way came across two horse riding paths called "Tigers Path Ride" which was a 2.1 Km horse path and further down was "Mumbai Point to Lovers Point" horse path .i now realized the reasons for Mahabaleshwar being a tourist hot spot of Maharashtra.A perfectly preserved forest environment having lodging for different tourist budgets and with convenient transport system to various tourist points across the plateau.Finally at 1645 hrs reached "Bombay(Mumbai) Point" and found the entrance having a few horses along with their handlers."Bombay Point" is also known as "Sunset Point" as it offers one of the best views of the Sunset akin to "Elphinstone Point".
"Holy Cross Cemetery" in Mahabaleshwar.
Entered the small garden of "Bombay Point" which also has a band-stand and found the view identical as from "Elphinstone Point" that i had visited the previous day.The iconic Pratapgad Fort was distinctly visible in the distance .I didn't wait to witness the Sunset as i dreaded the though of getting lost in the forest on my lonely way back to Mahabaleshwar Market.To the left of "Bombay Point" is "Lovers Point" and as the name indicates it would definitely be a ideal honeymoon locale in Mahabaleshwar ! Witnessed the sight of a horse-handler making his horse "Whatsapp"stand on its 2 hind feet akin to a circus act.
View of the 19th century "European Graveyard"
This horse was definitely far ahead of its peers and the name "Whats App" suited it perfectly as is the mobile phone application "Whats App" in information technology.Decided to head back to town as it was a long 3 Kms walk back and i didn't want to get lost in the jungle once darkness set in. There were no street lights as in city's which is excellent as the wildlife is not disturbed.After about 1 Km came across the sprawling "KRISHNA"MTDC" hotel complex. Beautiful cottages were for rentals with most of them being unoccupied.Further ahead just opposite the "Krishna MTDC" resort was the "Raj Bhavan" which is the summer residence of the Governor of Maharashtra."Raj Bhavan" used to be known as "The Terraces" under the British Raj.
"HOLY CROSS CHURCH(Est 1831)
It is now a holiday resort for highly placed Government officials.From Raj Bhavan began my marathon walk back to Mahabaleshwar city in the pleasant evening cool weather which was beginning to get a bit chill .Came across the "European Cemetery" which was locked and had statues of Our lady of Piety " and the "Resurrected Christ" installed near the entrance and now named the "Holy Cross Cemetery".These Statues were blessed and installed by Catholic bishop Valerian.D'souza of Pune on 22nd April 2007 on the occasion of celebration of 175 years of the "Holy Cross Church" situated in the town centre.Majority of Britishers were Anglicans(Protestants) and now there were just only twelve Indian Catholic families belonging to "Holy Cross Church" of Mahabaleshwar making it the smallest Parish in India if not the World.
Busy Market Street of Mahabaleshwar at night.
Cemeteries fascinate me as the serene and quietness found in a cemetery is non-existent in any other part of a large city barring dense forests as in Mahabaleshwar.It was a comparatively short 1 Km walk from the cemetery to Mahabaleshwar bazaar town which was brightly lit up by the shops and tourist traffic.Horses along with their handlers were returning back to their homes from the various tourist points. The Bazaar town of Mahabaleshwar genuinely resembled a wild west town in the evening barring the 21st century attire of its inhabitants as its rare to find horses akin to cars in a modern town in India.Dinner was" Bheja(Brain)Chinese fried rice(Rs 169)" at the local Dhabba next to my lodge . My cough/cold was a constant companion and it was again a partial sleepless night in my cosy hostel lodge.
At "VEENA LAKE" and "BOAT CLUB".
Wednesday (13-1-2016) SOLO TREK OF MAHABALESHWAR AND DEPARTURE TO MUMBAI :- The sound of the Muezzin's call for prayers at 0600 hrs from the Mosque in the market square was my time to get out of bed after a almost sleepless night.
"B.D.Petit Library Club" in Mahabaleshwar.
Went out into the gallery that faced the street and saw a young group of men on their way for a early morning trek as well as a few new tourist arrivals in the dark cold morning.This was my last day and had to check-out of the lodge at 0900 hrs.Hence decided to directly check out of the lodge at 0900 hrs and spend the entire day discovering Mahabaleshwar on foot.As the Sun rose went back to the gallery and met my fellow tourist Mr Virendra.K.Mittal who had just checked into the next room.Got into a conversation and akin to me he was also a solo tourist , a government retiree former audit officer and at 69 years of age absolutely fit and a avid traveller.
Mahabaleshwar S.T.Bus Terminus.
He was touring Mahabaleshwar on a taxi having visited a few points the previous dayThe hostel was deserted and he wanted his bed tea finally going into the lodge just opposite our's for his morning tea. His room had a television and i caught up with the latest news.Decided to have my tea in the market just a short walking distance from the lodge and walked out of the lodge into the cold morning..Had my cup of tea and a "Vada/Paav" at a roadside stall near the S.T bus stand.. Noticed a old bungalow sitting in the middle of the main town-square between the main market road and the Holy Cross church road.
"STRAWBERRY" hawker.City of Strawberries.
On inquiry was told that it was the heritage "B.D.Petit library and sports club" established in 1900.Akin to Panchgani ,Mahabaleshwar was also initially a small British/Parsi town that later became a city.Returned back to the lodge with the lodge very conveniently located in the heart of the small Market road.Hotel manager Mr Tukaram was a bit late and i requested him to keep my bag in his cloak room after my check-out from the lodge. He obliged as do all hotels or hostels.After a hot water bathe checked out of the lodge depositing my bag at the check-in counter.My destination was Veena lake.A strawberry seller was busy assorting his strawberries from the freshly arrived stock from the nearby farms.
Veena Lake with its "Boat Club" for tourists.
I was in Mahabaleshwar just at the right time at the start of the strawberry season that would last until May . Veena lake is a artificial lake having been constructed by the Raja of Satara Shri Appasaheb.Maharaj in the year 1842.Boarded the local S.T bus with the ticket to Veena lake costing Rs 6 which was a distance of 2 Kms from the S.T bus stand.At approximately 0940 hrs i was at Veena lake which was deserted with the boat club idle and not a single tourist in sight.Made my way into the "Boat Club" with water and boats having been my profession for 23 years in the "Mercantile Merchant Navy".Sat at the tourist lounge facing the lake and gradually watched the tourists come into the boat club venue.Couldn't help being amused watching a young couple busy clicking various "SELFIE" poses along the waterfront and boats.
Mr Virendra.Mittal & Self at Veena Lake.
Seems they had never ever seen a lake or the sea or boats as they were totally fascinated by the lake and its surrounding boats.Later the place gradually got crowded with a large group of young students arriving with their teachers.A few tourists began their boat rides and suddenly spotted Mr Virendra.Mittal arriving at the boat club.He had completed his early morning "Taxi point tour" and had alighted at Veena lake for a boat ride. The cost of hiring a single boat for half an hour was Rs 250 and he was awaiting a chance to join a group of tourists to book a complete boat.We both discussed various phases of travel and as on all my solo tours always did make new acquaintances along my travel routes never ever really all alone.He was to depart to Pune after the boat ride and unluckily didn't get any fellow tourists to share a boat .We both took a photograph together and he made his way out of the boat club to board a bus to Pune. Memories of my shipping employment and numerous acquaintances and friends that shared my shipping life of sailing flashed through my memory bank as i stared at the lake and tourists.
Boating and recreation on VEENA LAKE. This lake supplies water to Mahabaleshwar and Panchgani.Mahabaleshwar receives one of the highest rainfall in India and Veena lake is the reservoir that never dries and a perineal source of drinking water.
"TAXI":- Fixed tour rates from Mahabaleshwar Market road.Popular mode of sightseeing for groups.
Finally at approx 11 30 hrs made my exit from Veena Lake and onto the main highway road to catch a bus or taxi back to Mahabaleshwar.During my long wait on the highway road came across some shepherd transporting their livestock on small pony's, a sight straight out of a "National Geographic documentary"
.
RARE SIGHT OF LIVESTOCK TRANSPORTATION :- Transporting young lambs and chickens on pony's.
Managed to get a S.T bus on the main highway outside Veena lake and finally reached Mahabaleshwar at approximately 1215 hrs.
"Maharashtrian Thali" for lunch.
My next plan was to walk up to the highest point in Mahabaleshwar which is called "Wilson Point" and at a distance of 2 Kms from Mahabaleshwar Market.. It was a straight long walk from the S.T bus stand and on nearing the main market area decided to have lunch .Entered "Giriraj Pure Vegetarian restaurant" and tasted their "Maharshtrian Thali" costing Rs 100.After lunch began my uphill Marathon trek towards Wilson point which is also called "Sunrise Point".It was a steep uphill walk and my legs were still holding firm..On the way came across a plush resort named "Citrus Chambers" and entered its palatial courtyard and reception lobby to inquire the room rentals .The charges for a plush room was Rs 6500/day on a twin sharing basis with swimming pool facilities.From "Citrus Chanmbers" it was another short uphill walk before i reached one of Mahabaleshwar's plushest resort named "Keys Resort".
At "WILSON POINT" watchtower.
The minimum charges were Rs 7000/Night on twin sharing basis with breakfast.Thus akin to any city or tourist resort Mahabaleshwar had its plush hotels as well as lower priced budget lodges suitable to various economic class of tourists.From "KEYS RESORT" it was a sudden change in topography with a narrow uphill road surrounded by dense jungle leading to "Wilson Point".After ages i was all alone in a dense forest and that too in 21st century India where most forests in city's and towns have been destroyed for the betterment of human civilization ! At 1330 hrs finally reached the peak of Mahabaleshwar called "Wilson point situated at a altitude of 1439 Meters(4710ft).
View from "WILSON POINT(Sunrise Point)".
It was known as Sindola hill during the Colonial rule and later renamed after Sir Leslie.Wilson who was the Governor of Bombay(Mumbai) between 1923 to 1926."Wilson Point" is a small flat plateau as is entire Mahabaleshwar with 3 watchtowers for tourists..Walked to the closest watchtower at the edge of the plateau from where a viewer can get a beautiful view of "Sunrise" at dawn.A young group of men came over to the watchtower and as usual had a small conversation with them They were working in the hotel industry in Pune and on a tour of Mahabaleshwar.After a brief rest at the watchtower began the trek back to town in bright sunshine and cool Mahabaleshwar weather.
"FISH STALLS" in Mahabaleshwar Market.
On reaching town decided to tour Mahabaleshwar main vegetable/fish/meat markets. Main Mahabaleshwar is a small one horse town consisting of the long "Market(Bazaar road)" that begins at the S.T bus stand and terminates near Key's hotel.A tourist can never ever get lost in Mahabaleshwar city unless wandering off the beaten trek into the dense evergreen forests.A vehicle is essential for visiting the various "POINTS" of Mahabaleshwar unless you are a addictive pathological trekker akin to me, with age being no bar.A motorcycle is the best and easiest mode of transport in Mahabaleshwar as the narrow roads are too dangerous for drivers not accustomed to the sharp u-bends of this hill-station.
Bee Farming :- "Honey Bee House" :
At approximately 1445 hrs reached the main market town and had a look at the fish market.There were only two fish shops akin to small stalls selling fish kept in ice boxes. The fish stock arrived from the Konkan coast and sold by weight.From the market walked the short distance to the S.T bus absolutely aimless about my next touring sight.Decided to test my walking limits by intending to walk to "Lodwick Point" situated 5 Kms from the S.T bus stand.It would mean a total walk of 10 Kms to and fro to Lodwick point and that too all alone in a strange jungle city.Took my gamble and began my marathon walk to "Lodwick Point"..On the route near the S.T Bus stand towards the main highway road came across "Sanjeevan Farm" that specialized in selling locally manufactured Mahabaleshwar honey and other herbal health foods.It was a open air farm with a single honey bee house kept for demonstration to tourists.They had a greenhouse growing "Spirulina", a form of algae which is considered a health food and sold in capsules and powder form. Purchased a 500 gm honey bottle costing Rs 210 and walked along the highway road towards destination "Lodwick Point".
A solo 5 Km trek to Lodwick /Elephants head Point.
This was my third day in Mahabaleshwar and hence was familiar to the main city landmarks with the Pratapgad highway being my tour route on all 3 days.All familiar hotels and soghts along the road until i came to the diversion road that had a direction indicator stating "Lodwick Point-Elephant Head point".Took the diversion and began one of the longest jungle walks of my life.Came across two men walking ahead of me who told me that Lodwick point was just 10 minutes walking distance and as i completed that walking time further came across some road tarmac layers who again told me that it was a Km away.
View from "Parking Lot" near "Lodwick Point".
A consolation was the weather which was cool and pleasant as well as the dense forests that covered both sides of the road.A few tourist cars did pass along the road but never a human besides the road construction men whom i met along the way.Along the road there was another uphill diversion leading to "Sydney House" but otherwise a straight walk down the paved narrow highway.Finally at 1615 hrs reached the parking lot of "Lodwick Pt" which offered a breathtaking view of the valley below.Now i realized the reasons for not seeing a single human barring a few locals along the trek as all tourists arrive by vehicles.It was another 1 Km walk from the car parking lot to Lodwick pt through a narrow unpaved path.On reaching "Lodwick Point" the 5 Kms walk proved worthwhile as the view was beautiful."Lodwick Point" at a height of 1240 Metres(4087 ft) was named after General Peter.Lodwick who was the first Englishman to set foot on Mahabaleshwar in 1824.
Memorial to General Peter.Lodwick at "LODWICK POINT".
From the Boars head on the other side of the monument the highway road snaking down to Bombay(Mumbai) is clearly visible in the deep valley below. From "Lodwick Point" it was another 200 meters walk through a narrow mountain ledge with railings on either side to "Elephants Head Point".This "Elephant head point" is different from the point of the same name at "Arthur's Seat".
"ELEPHANTS HEAD POINT".:- Extreme end of the mountain range.
It was 1700 hrs and the thought of walking back another 5 kms to Mahabaleshwar S T Bus stand gave me the creeps although i loved jungle treks being a proficient 'Air-gun" hunter in the 1970's during occasional holidays to my parents native villages near Mangalore.
Not a leopard but a "German Shepherd" in the forest.
Today i shun hunting and have never shot another bird since the late 1970's with my air-gun being a antique weapon in my house. Jim Corbett was my hero having read all his books and with hunting becoming extinct it was now travel exploration and wildlife sightseeing and camera safari's that was my luxury expenses.After a little rest at the car park began my return marathon journey to Mahabaleshwar town.En-route came across a lone German shepherd dog with a collar walking alone towards me from the other side of the road.My senses went on alert as the last thing on my mind was being attacked by a guard dog from one of the surrounding hotel resorts or private Bungalows.
"B.D.PETIT LIBRARY CLUB"
The dog stared at me and walked away towards Lodwick point with me breathing a sigh of relief that it was not a replica of the fictional "Hound of the Baskervilles".At approximately 1745 hrs reached the diversion to the main road and sat on a bench for some rest. A Mumbaikar businessman Mr Pratnik was seated on the bench next to me and picked up a conversation with him. His relatives owned a bungalow just further down the road to Lodwick point and he was holidaying in Mahabaleshwar.After a brief talk of travel and business we bid goodbye and i headed back down the straight highway to Mahabaleshwar S.T stand.At 1830 hrs i reached Mahabaleshwar town and entered the historic "B.D.Petit Library club" which had readers inside the library.
Mahabaleshwar delicacy.
Various newspapers in different languages were on the long library table the showcases had a good collection of books ranging from novels to periodicals and other assorted books.Entrance as well as reading was free of charge.Browsed through the English newspapers and had a glimpse at the billiard room next to the main reading room. It was crowded with players and onlookers and seems this ancient library was very much in use by the locals.From the library strolled aimlessly across the market road just enjoying the tourist atmosphere of Mahabaleshwar. Gambling slot machine shops are popular in the market town as was strawberry ice cream parlours and a variety of vegetarian and non-vegetarian eateries.Dinner consisted of a exotic local dish called "Makkai Frankie" at a roadside stall.After dinner had a dessert of pure strawberry juice and later purchased a kilogram of strawberries and some local delicacies for further eating at home in Mumbai.
"MAHABALESHWAR :- Horses and View points
The bus boarding point was "Dreamland hotel" situated behind Mahabaleshwar bus stand.On the way to the bus boarding centre visited "Holy Cross Church" whose doors were open and was surprised at the beautiful maintenance of one of the smallest Catholic Parish in the World let alone India.The bus was punctual and was allotted sleeper berth Nos 16 with this being my first instance of travelling on a sleeper bus in India. I have travelled on sleeper buses abroad but never in India. It was a comfortable journey although my cold/cough made me restless.Reached Mumbai's Sion locality at approximately 0400 hrs .Boarded a taxi costing Rs 155 and was home in Prabhadevi at a very unearthly hour of the morning.
P.S :- Daily average 15 Kms treks for 3 consecutive days in Mahabaleshwar took its toll on my leg muscles and knee's.Recovery was gradual over weeks and not a day or days as in my youth ! To quote one of my favorite sportsperson Muhammad.Ali(Cassius.Clay) on his retirement from professional boxing ,quote," I am at a age where my mind says YES but my body says NO"! At the age of 55 years in future the odds of me getting married are lower than the odds of trekking hills or rugged mountain paths again.
NOTE :- ALL THE OPINIONS AND VIEWS EXPRESSED ARE MY OWN.
